We headed straight for Bhaktapur and Kumari Guest House, owned by an affable Nepali, Chudamani, and run by his nephew Ukesh. We stayed there pre and post trek in late 2000 - when it was not long opened - and hold many fond memories.
During our stay in 2000 the toilet seat in our bathroom fell off, and when we asked to have it repaired they simply picked it up off the floor and placed back onto the pan. Fixed, sir...
The guesthouse hasn't really stood up to the test of time particularly well, but we couldn't deny staying once again.
Bhaktapur cannot fail to engage you visually. It's one of the three ancient capitals of Nepal. Predominantly Hindu.
When we first stayed in Bhaktapur we had arrived at 2am and not too long after awoken around 5am by the sounds of bells ringing, chanting and throat clearing. The next morning we just had to get up and find out what was going on. This time around we got the kids up to repeat that, watching hundreds of folk walking from religious relic to religious relic. Gifts of food were being placed upon, deep orange dyes being thumbed on, heads being touched against. There are just so many relics. Some of them obvious, some very obscure.
This is THE time of the year for Nepali weddings. We were fortunate to watch a wedding party making their way to the reception. There are traditionally the brides and the grooms processions with loud brass band.
Apart from that, just wandering around the village was full of interest.
Shane, Helen, Rosie and Tom